Notes about mammal watching at Deramakot, Way Kambas and Gunung Leuser: The Good, The Bad and the Ugly
I wanted to attach this as a comment on Jon’s trip report but you can’t add attachments in comments so I will just attach it in a different post. Make sure to read Jon’s trip report first, to know what we saw and where. My notes are meant to help future mammal watchers in these places know what to expect, and also get into the detail of the mammal-watching strategy: what worked and what didn’t work. Going to the right places often isn’t enough, the strategies and behaviors in the field may affect the success rate. Enjoy.
24 Comments
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Israel
that’s what I always think when reading these reports! A lot of the parks in Indonesia do require guides which is really frustrating, but you don’t need one at Gunung Leuser or Kerinci-Seblat. Way Kambas is crap for independent wildlife-watching, I don’t know why everyone always raves about it. I stayed inside the park at the HQ, and it was far too expensive (although only a tiny fraction of what Satwa Lodge seems to charge!!), but most aggravating is that they don’t let you go anywhere without a guide – not even just walking the road – and they (at that time) would only do two hours in the morning and two in the evening, and each two hours cost as much as a full day at other parks requiring guides. They caught me one time when I snuck off by myself, and they were not happy about it!! I only took the boat once, to get to the swamp where the white-winged wood ducks hang out, and it was ridiculously expensive (I did see rhino footprints and wallows there, though).
The really big problem with local guides in Indonesia are some of the things pointed out in the post. They generally don’t know what they are doing, they either walk ahead and scare animals away or trail uselessly behind talking loudly, and if they do see something they either tell you it is something that it clearly is not, or they tell you after it has gone!
With Borneo I don’t know why anyone would use a guide anyway because it simply isn’t necessary, unless you are going somewhere that requires one for access.
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vdinets
As of 2009, you are not allowed to go into GL without a guide. But there are certain options at the periphery.
Kerinci has not just the summit trail where everybody goes, but also a few lowland sectors with nice roads. I haven’t checked those out, but they should have pretty much everything.
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vdinets
Technically, it was illegal. If you ran into park guides or rangers deep inside the park, you could get in trouble. Of course, you could always say you got lost and didn’t even realize that… what else to expect from a farangi 😉
You can actually get into Way Kambas the same way. If you are interested, I can send you the details.
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Richard Webb
Sorry for the length of this response but to address the specific question about Marbled Cats there are a number of important points that come into play here. Firstly successful mammal watching is a combination of a lot of effort and even more good luck. I remember back in 1995 in Cameroon during two consecutive nights’ spotlighting south of Waza in the same weather conditions at exactly the same time of night, on the first night we saw 14 mammals of 8 species including three cats of two species on the second night two individuals of two species. That’s the challenge of mammal watching.
I’ve spent 17 nights spotlighting in Way Kambas compared to the four spent on this trip, that increases your chances. On the first trip I saw the first Marbled Cat on night 8 although we’d seen a probable the night before. We did tend to alternate driving with walking but found all the Marbled Cats from the moving car. Secondly in Way Kambas using a small spotlight rather than a large one works better because of the thick vegetation, you are looking for eye shine not shapes so a thin focused beam works better. We did have a quieter vehicle as Tomer suggested, the open-back vehicle is a new introduction, the boats were in better shape as well.
I’m with Vladimir and prefer to go things alone when I can but you are stuck in WK although it is fortunate that Hari is as good as he is. However you need to remember that mammal watchers are rare and the drivers won’t necessarily have been out with mammal watchers before. It’s therefore essential that you really explain what is expected up front and bring them into line if they aren’t able to deliver. I’ve had drivers changed more than once. However on the other side of the coin remember that the drivers are paid a pittance, on my first trip to Danum we were paying 100 dollars for an extended night drive and the driver/guide was being paid 5 dollars. Consequently their motivation is not high particularly on long night drives so if you find a good one tip him well and he’ll want to come out with you and work hard again and again. If a driver knows he will benefit from driving well ….
Finally one thing that I actually disagree on is the importance of photos. It can be important but more important is knowing what to expect beforehand and what to look for and getting good views of things. I take relatively few photos at night as I haven’t worked out how to hold a spotlight with one hand (I prefer to find things myself), binoculars with another and a camera in my mouth. That doesn’t mean that I or anyone else who does not get a photo of something didn’t see it. I know tour guides who have seen Clouded Leopard in Way Kambas on two occasions, I haven’t seen photos, and I didn’t see them myself but I know they saw them. As it happens I’ve got photos of two of the Marbled Cats, one taken on Hari’s phone but they are not good enough for the report and I don’t just include photos for grip value. However photos can be useful Jon sent me a photo of the possible Flat-headed Cat for comment and it clearly is a Leopard Cat, structurally alone it’s completely wrong for a Flat-head.
Finally although Way Kambas is hard work don’t be put off. The effort pays dividend in the end.
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vdinets
I think it should be possible to rent a car in Jakarta or on Bali, drive it to Sumatra and into WK. I mean, all their “safety concerns” about night walks wouldn’t work for drives, right? And that would solve so many problems at once, including the tendency of Indonesian drivers to use any road trip is an opportunity to do all kinds of family business. Car rentals in Bali are really cheap nowadays, and I’m so fed up with other local transportation options, I don’t even want to think about them. There are car rentals in Kota Kinabalu, too.
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Richard Webb
A further comment as I’ve just read through the original note again. Your experience of Hari seems totally at odds with mine and others who have used him since my original trip. I know two groups who travelled with him last year and this and raved about him. The description of someone jumping out of the car, running towards an animal and yelling is not the Hari I know and suggests that something else was wrong on this trip. As with drivers working successfully with a guide is about building rapport and teamwork. The best guides become friends not simply guides.
As regards the lack of photo opportunities that’s the reality in a lot of forest sites especially on trails or narrow jeep tracks. I’ve got very few photos from forests but plenty from open country sites. I’ve found that since the digital era arrived people who previously stopped to enjoy things through binoculars don’t even bother to look at things nowadays and are totally dissatisfied unless they have a photo of everything that moves. Seeing something well is often far more rewarding than simply starting the motor-drive and only appreciating what you’ve seen when you view the photos later.
Watching things rather than photographing them gives you more appreciation of what they do and how they behave and makes it easier to realise when you have actually found something different to the norm than just looking at pictures.
I’ve taken this approach ever since I realised how much time I wasted swapping lenses rather than watching the animal when I saw Snow Leopard in Kazakstan and how I’d hardly looked at a family of Pumas in Chile as I’d spent the whole time trying to photograph them. I’ve got great photos of the Pumas but much better memories from two subsequent encounters with Pumas where I didn’t get the camera out.
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Jon Hall
I too wanted to weigh in on this having just read Tomer’s comments about Sumatra. He and I will have to agree to differ on aspects of the trip and his comments are his own (just as my trip report reflects my thoughts). In particular I thought Hari was a great guide and I didn’t feel he frightened anything away … animals get spooked for all sorts of reasons. For instance, I’d have been impressed if the Otter Civet had heard anything above the racket of the outboard. Nor would I say that running towards a tree, which may have housed a Marbled Cat that was already bolting, was the wrong thing to do. Maybe… maybe not. Its very hard to say. I also agree with Richard that Way Kambas, in particular, was not an easy place for photography. Its quite scrubby dense secondary forest and animals were seldom in the open. But I am pretty sure I have never seen as much diversity in 5 days in SE Asia as we saw there.
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Richard Webb
Tomer, Fair enough. One further thought about your comment on the value of photos. Where they are really important is in terms of getting sightings accepted by the scientific community. A lot of reports get excluded from the scientific record because there is no ‘supporting evidence’ which is a shame because a lot of mammal watchers have far more experience of a species than the scientists studying them and do see a lot of good things. I know of researchers who have studied species for several years without observing them once in the field because they don’t actually go out looking and rely on camera traps etc.. However even if someone has a photo it doesn’t mean it’s been identified correctly. Fishing Cat is shown as occurring on Sumatra on the basis of two photos that were misidentified and subsequent provided to be Leopard Cats. Will Duckworth and others having seen the photos correctly re-identified them and consequently concluded that there are no proven records of Fishing Cat on Sumatra proving the value of photos albeit retrospectively. Richard
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Richard Webb
Tomer, hi. I wouldn’t go as far as referring to myself as a cat expert but I’ve had a lot of success looking for cats other than Clouded Leopards although it’s taken a lot of time and money and I think that Vladimir has seen more than me. Check out the following page http://dinets.info/wildcats.htm .
On the subject of Golden Cats there is a photo from Kerinci in 2013 in the report in the first link below. This photo and another photo is on Surfbirds. If you go to the second link and type Golden Cat in species, and Hutchinson in author it should bring up the other photo from 2006. I think they are easier to see at Kerinci than anyone else but still not easy. It’s another species along with African Golden Cat (my only missing African cat) that’s high on the wanted list. Hope this helps. Richard
http://www.birdtourasia.com/pdf%20Reports/Birdtour%20Asia%20Java%20and%20Sumatra%202013.pdf
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mattinidaho
It was interesting reading these 2 reports of the same trip. Glad you both posted. There is another perspective that we don’t get to read — that of the guide.
I have talked to enough guides to know that some clients come with completely unrealistic expectations. They want to see a saola, a Yeti and a woolly mammoth, all in 2 days, without leaving the lodge, in camera range — and preferably all fighting each other.
I have never found wildlife spotting to be particularly easy in tropical forests. It’s not the Serengeti. A glimpse is the norm. Photography is difficult, even for professionals.You need to have realistic expectations in these environments. The people who are really seeing a lot of cool stuff in tropical forests are often taking a lot of time and have excellent field skills. Even then, luck doesn’t hurt.
I’ve spent my whole life crazy about outdoor/nature pursuits, and one of the big lessons I’ve learned is there are no guarantees. That may overly schlocky and simplistic, but it’s surprising to me how many people forget that. T There’s no substitute for developing your own field skills. Even then, things don’t always go as planned. That’s what makes it fun.
And the other overtly simplistic lesson: It should be FUN. I know we all have different ideas of a good time. But if you are on holiday and come home with high blood pressure and a migraine, is it really worth it? You are spending time in a cool place looking for cool critters. A lot of people would give their left arm to do that, even if the conditions and guides are less than optimal.
OK, end of lecture. Good discussion here.
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vdinets
tomeslice: I’m still missing marbled cat, African golden cat, and Sunda clouded leopard. A few more species are on my “better view desired” list. Also, the systematics of small South American cats are in flux and I might end up missing something there.
Richard: we saw fresh, 100% certain golden cat tracks along the summit trail in Kerinci in 2009.
All: There are, of course, cases when getting a photo is pretty much essential. I have to admit that I still don’t remember the facial features of all horseshoe-nosed bats 🙁
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vdinets
Sorry, I just have to ask: have you guys considered not using local guides at all? To me it sounds like you’d do better by yourselves. There are a few places on Sumatra where you can walk around without a guide. Or just hire me next time, I’ll certainly find you more stuff 😉