MAMMAL WATCHING.COM
 

Home Country Guides: Books, links and trip reports whale and dolphin watchingFocus on Australia Mammal watching: Some tipsWorldwide Mammal Info: Books and links with a global coverage Mammal Watching Blog: Read and Subscribeme and my mammal watching

I spent a month mammal watching in SE Asia during the early part of the rainy season in September 2004. There were plenty of animals to see, though wherever I went people would tell me that mammals (or at least the ones I was looking for) were easier to see during the dry season... but I suspect that is true only of certain species. I’d been told the opposite when I had visited Thailand during the dry season! Perhaps because the questions I asked related only to the species I hadn’t seen, the answer might be expected….

Primates and squirrels were easiest to find in the very early morning (from just before dawn for the next two hours or so). The late afternoon was generally less good, and I tried to catch up on sleep most days after lunch, so don’t know much about mammal activity then. Spotlighting was fairly hit and miss: the abundance of animals was hard to predict or relate to the vagaries of weather or moon cycle. Heavy rain seemed to make the animals hard to find, but (and based on one night in particular) I found the hours immediately after heavy rain to be particularly productive for seeing stuff, especially along the road, along which I imagine some species may choose to travel to avoid the sopping wet forest.

In peninsula Malaysia I hired a car and driving was easy.

Taman Negara, 3 nights - My main reason for visiting the park was to try to see a Tapir. The journey to Taman Negara from Kuala Tembelling is 2-3 hours by longboat. Saw White-thighed Langurs (not Banded as I first thought) on the way (which are much paler than the Banded Langurs animals in Thailand). The boat trip would have been very exciting were it not for my trip a few days earlier to Klong Saeng in Thailand which was more remote and altogether more adventurous.

I stayed at Nusa Camp, pleasant enough and quieter than the main area of the park. It was a little frustrating though: staying there means you are reliant on ferries to travel to the best areas of the park – ferries that are hard and expensive to arrange unless you are happy to stick to the scheduled service that only begins running at about 9am. Low’s and Prevosts Squirrels were active around the camp. I spent two nights at the Kangbun hide where the two of us took shifts all night to watch for Tapirs. None showed, which was a little unusual, and perhaps the torrential rain put them off.  A few weeks earlier I was told some tourists had reported seeing 10 in a night. The only animals that I saw from the hide were Banded Langurs, a Plantain Squirrel, a Common Porcupine and a pair of Yellow-throated Martens. Two Pencil-tailed Tree Rats (Niviventer cremoriventer) visited the hide at about midnight both nights. A couple of back-packers who’d walked the 12 kms to the hide (I took a boat most of the way bar the last couple of kms) had seen a black Leopard that morning en route.

The park’s bat cave – Gua Telinga – is well worth a look. Haven’t worked out all the bats, but there were lots of Intermediate Roundleaf bats in the first chamber, along with a Horseshoe species, Small Asian Sheathtails, perhaps some Dusky Fruit Bats and – at the upper exit to the cave in the twilight –  a small group of Lesser False Vampire Bats – a superb bat to see so close.


Lesser False Vampire Bats, Gua Telinga

Other mammals around the park included a Lesser Mouse Deer (on the trail to the canopy walkway at about 10am) and Black Giant Squirrels (around the bench 200 metres up the hill from the canopy walkway turnoff). There were Crestless-firebacks (birds!) around the picnic area near the campsite. Spotlighting along the road from Nusa Camp to Kuala Tembelling produced a couple of Black Flying Squirrels and a gliding Colugo. The guys at the camp reckon they have seen heaps of stuff along that road during night drives over the years (including Sun Bears and Leopards).

Not sure I’d go back to Taman Negara, though I’m still determined to see a Tapir so I might have too (it still sounds like the best place to look for Malaysian Tapirs).

Bukit Fraser, 1 night -  Stopped for a night here to see Siamang, which we found quite easily about 1km up the road from the Gap at about 9am – they were calling all along the road, and we found them by stopping at suitable vantage points and scanning the canopy. Great animals. Also saw White-thighed Langurs in the same area and a Himalayan Striped-tree Squirrel in the trees behind the café at the Gap. For closer views of Siamang, the trails around Bishop’s Cottage are supposedly good.


Bukit Fraser

Bukit Larut (Maxwell Hill), 1 night - This is a nice spot, and off the beaten track. Although I wanted to stay at the last resthouse (Guning Hijau) on the road up the mountain, it was closed when I got there, so I had to stay at the main resthouse about 1km down the hill. We were the only guests. The road up the mountain between the resthouse and G. Hijau was good for mammals. I saw Wild Boar and a Crab-eating Mongoose in the late afternoon. In the evening a Masked Palm Civet was teetering along the phone lines, and a Common Palm Civet was moving along the road later that night. Set some Elliott traps around Guning Hijau and caught the newly split Cameron Highlands Niviventer (Mountain Rat) (Niventer cameroni split from N. rapit ).

Kuala Selanagor, 1 hour  - Stopped briefly at Kuala Selanagor to see the Silvered Langurs – lovely animals in an uninspiring setting as we watched one forage around the garbage with a heap of Long-tailed Macaques just outside the park.


Silvered Langur

Kuala Lumpur
In 2008 I had a free afternoon in Kuala Lumpur so visited a small forest reserve in the middle of the city. Bukit Nanas is a well known tourist destination and is next to Dang Wangi station (just 3 stops from KL Central railway station on the rapid KL line) . Its only 16 hectares of forest but it is nice forest and has a lot of wildlife. I saw 2 Common Tree Shrews, a Grey-bellied Squirrel, Long-tailed Macaques and Silvered Langurs, in a couple of hours late in the afternoon. I'm not sure whether Lesser Tree Shrews occur there. But after speaking to someone outside it sounds like 3 Striped Ground Squirrels are also quite common.

Other People's Trip Reports
Peninsula Malaysia, 2006: Steve Anyon-Smith, 1 week & 21 mammals.

Peninsula Malaysia and Sarawak, 1998: Steve Anyon-Smith, 4 weeks & 29 mammals.

Peninsula Malaysia, 1997: Susan Myers, 3 weeks and 16 species.

Bhutan Borneo China hong kong india Indonesia peninsula malaysia nepal sri lanka Thailand Vietnammy Oriental life list whale watching in the orient
 
afrotropical australasian nearctic neotropical oriental palearctic