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Jaguar, The Pantanal

I’ve visited Brazil twice. In October 2006 I spent 6 days in the western Amazon, 4 hours boat trip along the Amazon from Leticia, Colombia. I stayed at the Palmari Lodge. See here for the trip report.

In August 2007 I returned for two and a half weeks and visited Rio Cristalino (the Central Amazon), the Pantanal and the state of Minas Gerais and onto Espirito Santo. See here for the trip report.

Amazonas (2006)


Boto (River Dolphin), Rio Palmari

Rio Palmari, October 2006, 5 nights – Boto, Tucuxi, Common Squirrel Monkey, Black-chested Moustached Tamarin, Kinkajou, Black Agouti, Amazon Dwarf Squirrel, Nancy Ma's Night Monkey, Brazilian Porcupine, Brown-Tufted Capuchin, Red Howler, Coppery Titi, Woolly Monkey, Monk Saki, Giant Otter, Collared Peccary, Short-Eared Dog.

Palmari is a great spot. A more basic experience than some of the more luxurious lodges in the Amazon but an interesting set of species. There are not a great deal of mammals close to the lodge and far the best way to see the more interesting animals is to take a overnight hike into the forest with one of the excellent guides (ideally for several nights). A detailed report is here.

Matto Grosso (2007)


Paca, Rio Cristalino

Rio Cristalino, August 2007, 3 nights – Azara’s Night Monkey, White-Whiskered Spider Monkey, White-Nosed Bearded Saki, Red-Handed Howler, Dusky Titi, Brown-Tufted Capuchin, Neotropical River Otter, Brazilian Tapir, Lesser White-lined Bat, Capybara, Paca, Grey Brocket Deer.

A comfortable lodge, with some great guides and staff, in a pristine section of Amazonian forest. Wildlife seems largely undisturbed and probably at near natural levels of abundance. A great place to look for Tapirs and Pacas as well as some good primate species. A detailed report is here.


Tapir, Transpantaneira

The Pantanal, August 2007, 1 week – Nine-banded Armadillo, Grey Four-Eyed Opossum, Giant Anteater, Southern Tamandua, Brazilian Tapir, Crab-Eating Fox, Crab-Eating Raccoon, Giant Otter, Neotropical River Otter, Ocelot, Jaguar, Black-tailed (Pantanal) Marmoset, Black Howler, Black-Striped Capuchin, South American Coati, Azara’s Agouti, Forest Rabbit, Capybara, Marsh Deer, Red Brocket Deer, Grey Brocket Deer, Long-nosed Bat, Greater Fishing Bat, Lesser Fishing Bat, Pallas's Mastiff Bat, Jamaican Fruit-eating Bat, Heller’s Broad-nosed Bat.

I can’t imagine wildlife watching in the neotropics gets much better than the Pantanal. There are many ecolodges along the 130km stretch of road than penetrates the Pantanal south of Cuiaba which vary in price and luxury. So far as I could tell there are more animals (both in abundance and diversity) along the first 40 kms. But the end of the road is an altogether better wilderness experience and it’s the best area for Jaguars and Tapirs. Pousada Jaguar about 90km down the road seems a particularly good spot for cats. A detailed report is here.

Minas Gerais and Espirito Santo (2007)


Giant Anteater, Canastra

Canastra National Park, August 2007, 2 nights – Giant Anteater, Maned Wolf, Pampas Deer, Black-tufted Marmoset. A beautiful park with abundant Giant Anteaters and also a good chance of seeing a Maned Wolves.

Caraca, August 2007, 2 nights – Masked Titi, Black-tufted Marmoset, Brazilian Guinea Pig, Guianan Squirrel, Black Myotis, Maned Wolf. An interesting place. I’d avoid the weekends; it was packed on a Saturday night. But it’s a good place to see Masked Titi Monkeys and a few other things. Plus you get to see Maned Wolves close up when they come to feed from the front patio every night.

Caratinga, August 2007, 2 nights – Southern Opossum, Brown Howler, Black-tufted Capuchin, Buffy-headed Marmoset, Northern Muriqui, Red-Rumped Agouti, Seba's Short-tailed Fruit Bat. A small patch of rainforest that holds an excellent range of primates and where Muriquis are almost guaranteed.  Definitely worth a visit

Sitio Graciema, August 2007, 1 hour – Geoffroy’s Marmoset, Common Long-tongued Bat. I guess you’d need to speak to one of the locals, or a guide, to arrange access to this private small holding where a habituated troop of introduced Geoffroy’s Marmosets are easy to see.

Santa Maria Northern Muriqui Reserve, August 2007, 1 day - Maned Sloth, Northern Muriqui, Brown Howler, Guianan Squirrel, Buffy-headed Marmoset. A small patch of remnant forest that is well worth a visit. Maned Sloths are easy to see, while the excellent research staff are very knowledgeable about the local fauna. It is possible to overnight here but unfortunately I didn't know til I arrived.

A detailed report is here.

Other People's trip reports
Brazil, 2006 - trip 2: Richard Webb, 2 weeks & 41 mammals.

Brazil, 2005 - trip 2: Richard Webb, 2 weeks & 32 mammals.

Brazil, 2005 - trip 1: Richard Webb, 2 weeks & 35 mammals.

Brazil, 2004 - trip 3: Richard Webb, 1 month & 43 mammals.

Brazil, 2004 - trip 2: Richard Webb, 2 weeks & 34 mammals.

Brazil, 2004 - trip 1 : Richard Webb, 1 week & 12 mammals.

Brazil, 2003: Richard Webb, 2 weeks & 27 mammals.

Brazil, 2001: Richard Webb, 2 weeks & 19 mammals.